So, the following steps will assist you in disassembling the isub,cleaning the parts, then pieceing it back together. However, thiscould provide you with the knowledge to paint the interior of the isub since it is clear plastic.

You will need the following tools for this project.

phillips screwdriver large and small needle nose pliers small wire cutter.


Ok, the first step in the disassembly process is to flip the iSub over and remove the rubber pads on the feet. These are best removed by simply peeling them off at an angle with your fingers. Once you peel them off you will noticed a plastic peg that is lodged into the foot. This is the plastic peg that the rubber pads were fitted onto.

Plastic foot

At first glance you may not think that this peg is actually a separate piece and that its part of the isub’s main structure. However, it is indeed a separate piece and can be rather difficult to get out. Don’t be too scared, these pegs are rather sturdy and it would be pretty difficult to beak them. On the other hand, be careful not to break them, b/c I don’t want to be responsible for telling you that they won’t. In order to get them out of the foot I took a phillips head screw-driver and simply pulled up on the peg making a circular pattern around it. This way its pulling the peg up from all sides. Once you break the seal on it, it comes up rather easily.

The next step is going to be removing the screws that you knew needed to be removed from the beginning. Just use your phillips head screwdriver. After these screws are removed the top piece and the bottom piece will seperate. Also the main board will become loose.

At this point, remove the top piece from the bottom piece, remove the silicone seal as well. Once you do this you will need to remove the part that is inside of the top piece.

Twist bubble

This part inside of the top can be removed by rotating it counter-clockwise (Firmly but carefully). Then it just will lift up.

Next, you will want to remove all of the parts from the bottom chassis of the isub. This contains the speaker, the circuit board, and the wiring. You will want to begin by removing the wiring off the circuit board. The first step will be to dislodge the board from its spot and get to the wiring. Be careful, as the wiring is tight. I was successful by gently pushing the usb cable back into the chassis while pulling up carefully on the circuit board assembly.

The first wire to remove is the one displayed below. There isn’t a lot of play in the line so be careful.

Clip connector

After you remove this wire you will want to remove the speaker +/- cables next. They are on there pretty tight and you don’t want to wiggle them around much or you may snap the terminals off of the speaker. Pulling up with a firm pull did the trick for me. However yours may be a little different, be careful.

Speaker wire connection

Sit the board off to the side. The next step is going to be removing the sub. There are screws located on the bottom of the unit under this bullet hole cover.

If you look close they arn’t too difficult to see, but they will release this cover and the sub from the bottom housing.

The next step before the cleaning process was to cover the wires on the bottom houseing with a little electrical tape. I am not really sure how much good this did me other than piece of mind, but I did it anyway.


After you have done this you are ready to clean. Sit your sub and screws as well as all the extra parts off to the side. Now, for the cleaning process I chose to soak mine in a tub. But, maybe in your instance a cloth or a simple sink rinse will do the trick.

All parts cleaned

I chose to let these sit in the tub in hot water for about an hour or so. In the meantime I began cleaning the more integral parts by hand. The first one on my list was the circuit board. I wanted to be very careful with this as I am sure liquid doesn’t do it any favors. I used q-tips with alcohol for the cleaning process as well as some tissues to soak any extra alcohol.

iSub 2000 icb

This was a very tedious process as I was trying my best not to get the board very wet at all. On the reverse side of this board there is a shiny silver plate that it rests on. After cleaning the circuit board I began on the sub.

I cleaned the outside of the sub with tissue paper and then used “Q-Tips” for the hard to reach places. I didn’t want to have a sub that starts to crack in a month. Using a “Q-Tip” to get to the back of the cone and along the subs foam that surrounds it and allows for excursion. Once I got the sub good and clean as well as the circuit board it was about time for the plastic housing removal.

So, I removed the plastic housing and began trying each piece off with a towel. I removed the tape from the bottom piece and after they were all towl dried I layed them out for about 20 minutes or so to dry a little more. 20 minutes later I returned and began to blow dry everything. I wanted to be sure that there wasn’t any water left inside of the unit before I re-assembled it. I wanted to avoid the condensing effect. It was also very important to ensure that the circuit board was completely dry to avoid it from shorting out. So, the blow-drying began.


Now that the cleaning process has been completed we can being assembling the isub back together. You will want to basically go in reverse from the disassembly process. However, there are a few problems that I ran into. I would go back in this order.

  • Sub and Sub Guard Plate
  • Circuit Board and Wiring
  • Attach Top Piece with the Inner Piece connected to the Base
  • Silicone Seal
  • Screws in the Bottom
  • Pegs and Rubber Pads

Ok, this is the order but there are a few things that you will want to note during the process. First of all, when attaching the wiring back to the circuit board I left off the fastening device that was used on the one wire. The reason for this is it placed that wire in a funny location that was going to knock off a resistor. Therefore, I left it off and ran the wire to the side another way.

The last trick to the assembly process is the silicone seal as you might have guessed. The reason is its hard to get it to stay in place if you do not do it this way. I put the top back onto the base of the unit without the seal where it belongs first, then rolled the seal down the isub until I fit into position.

After you get this seal into position you are not quite done. The seal needs to fit into the crack real tight. The best way to achieve this is to slightly lift the top of the unit and push it into the crack. You need to be careful not to lift the top too much or the seal will go too far in and you will have to start over.

Once you have gotten the seal into the crack nicely all the way around the isub you need to hold pressure on the top and bottom piece to keep it from going too far in. At this point, flip it over and screw the screws into the feet on the bottom. Then add the pegs and then the rubber pads.

The beautiful iSub 2000


Do it all right and you should be able to put it back together again!